What You Need (Quick Checklist) | Item | Details | |---|---| | Container | 6 quart gasket sealed plastic bin | | Substrate | 2-3 inches of ABG mix or topsoil/coco coir blend | | Leaf litter | 1.5-2 inches of oak or magnolia leaves | | Hides | Cork bark flats, egg carton, or coconut hides | | Calcium | Cuttlebone or crushed oyster shell | | Moisture | Sphagnum moss clump on one side for gradient | | Springtails | One culture added to substrate | | Ventilation | Small holes or mesh strip in lid |
Written by the team at Creature Cache, based on firsthand colony management experience in Southern California. Updated 2026.
Whether you are keeping isopods as pets, building a bioactive terrarium, or starting a breeding colony, the enclosure setup is the foundation of everything. Get this right and your isopods will thrive with minimal effort. Get it wrong and you will be chasing problems from day one.
This guide walks you through everything you need to set up your first isopod enclosure from scratch.
Choosing a Container
For most species a simple plastic storage bin works perfectly. A 6 quart bin is ideal for a starter colony of 10 to 20 isopods. As your colony grows you can upgrade to a 15 or 32 quart bin.
Gasket sealed bins are preferred because they hold humidity better than standard snap lid containers. You can find these at most hardware stores or online for a few dollars.
Glass terrariums and acrylic enclosures work too but they are more expensive and not necessary for most keepers. Save the fancy enclosures for display setups once you have your colonies established.
Ventilation
Isopods need airflow to prevent stagnant air and mold buildup. But too much ventilation will dry out the enclosure and crash your humidity. The goal is a balance between moisture retention and fresh air.
For a plastic bin setup, drill or melt small holes along the top edge of the bin on two opposite sides. About 10 to 15 small holes on each side is a good starting point. Alternatively you can cut a rectangular hole in the lid and hot glue a piece of fine mesh screen over it.
If your enclosure is drying out too fast you have too much ventilation. Cover some of the holes with tape. If you are getting mold or condensation buildup on the walls you need more airflow. Open a few more holes or increase the mesh area.
Substrate
The substrate is where your isopods will spend most of their time. They burrow in it, eat it, lay eggs in it, and molt in it. A good substrate holds moisture, provides nutrition, and stays loose enough for burrowing.
We use a modified ABG mix for all of our colonies: 12 quarts sphagnum moss, 6 quarts coco coir, 4 quarts orchid bark, 2 quarts charcoal, and 2 quarts worm castings.
Mix everything together thoroughly and hydrate it until it is damp but not dripping. When you squeeze a handful it should hold together but not release water. Add 2 to 3 inches of substrate to the bottom of your enclosure.
If you do not want to mix your own, plain organic topsoil mixed with coco coir at a 50/50 ratio works as a simple alternative for beginners. Just make sure the topsoil has no added fertilizers or pesticides. For the full breakdown of our substrate recipe and why each ingredient matters, see our ABG Substrate Guide.
Moisture Gradient
This is one of the most important concepts in isopod keeping. You want one side of the enclosure to be moist and the other side to be drier. This lets the isopods move between zones and self regulate based on what they need at any given time.
To create a gradient, place a large clump of damp sphagnum moss in one corner. This is your wet side. Mist this area regularly and keep the moss visibly moist. The opposite corner should have drier substrate with no moss. The middle will naturally fall somewhere in between.
Mancae (baby isopods) tend to hang out on the wet side. Adults will move back and forth. If you see all of your isopods crammed into the wet corner, your dry side is probably too dry overall. If they are all avoiding the wet side, you may be overdoing the moisture.
Leaf Litter
Leaf litter is not optional. It is the primary food source for most isopod species. Without it your isopods will not thrive no matter how perfect the rest of your setup is.
Add a thick layer of dried leaves on top of the substrate. Aim for 1.5 to 2 inches deep. Oak and magnolia leaves are the most popular choices because they break down slowly and are safe for isopods. You can also use Indian almond leaves, maple leaves, or a mix of different types.
Collect leaves from areas that have not been sprayed with pesticides or herbicides. If you are unsure about the source you can bake leaves on a sheet pan at 200°F for 30 minutes to sterilize them.
Replace leaf litter as it breaks down. When you notice the leaves are turning to powder or thinning out, add a fresh layer on top.
Hides and Decor
Isopods are nocturnal and spend most of the day hiding. Providing hides makes them feel secure which reduces stress and encourages breeding.
Cork bark is the gold standard for isopod hides. Lay flat pieces on top of the substrate and your isopods will congregate underneath. Cork bark also holds moisture on its underside which creates a humid microclimate that isopods love.
Other good options include egg carton pieces (cheap and effective but not attractive), dried wood pieces, coconut hides, and seed pods. You can also add lichen covered sticks for species that like to climb such as Laureola (Durian Spiky) and some Cubaris species.
Calcium Source
Isopods need calcium for healthy molting and exoskeleton development. Without it they can have failed molts which can be fatal.
Place a piece of cuttlebone or a small pile of crushed oyster shell on the substrate surface. The isopods will graze on it as needed. Replace it when it gets eaten down. This is especially important for species with thicker shells like Armadillidium and Laureola.
Adding Springtails
We strongly recommend adding springtails to every isopod enclosure. Springtails are tiny arthropods that eat mold, fungal growth, and microscopic organic debris. They handle the jobs that isopods miss and the two work together as a complete cleanup system.
Springtails also serve as an indicator species. If your enclosure conditions are good, your springtails will boom. If conditions are off they will decline, which gives you an early warning before your isopods are affected.
Add a springtail culture directly to the substrate when you set up the enclosure. They will establish themselves quickly and require no additional care beyond what you are already doing for your isopods. We use Tropical Pink springtails (Coecobrya sp.) in all of our setups. For full details, see our Springtail Care Guide.
Food and Supplements
Leaf litter and decaying wood should be the base of your isopods' diet and should always be available. Beyond that you can supplement with fresh vegetables like zucchini, squash, carrot, sweet potato, and cucumber. Cut them into small pieces and place them on the substrate.
Protein is important especially for breeding colonies. Offer freeze dried shrimp, fish flakes, dried mealworms, or bee pollen once a week. Remove uneaten food within 24 to 48 hours to prevent mold and pest issues.
Do not overfeed. A small piece of vegetable and a pinch of protein once a week is plenty for a starter colony. As the colony grows you can increase the amount.
What Not to Do
Do not use potting soil with added fertilizers or pesticides. Always check the label.
Do not let the enclosure dry out completely. Even species that prefer drier conditions need access to moisture.
Do not place the enclosure in direct sunlight. Isopods are nocturnal and heat from direct sun can overheat and kill them quickly.
Do not open the enclosure constantly. Every time you open the lid you release humidity. Check on them every few days, mist as needed, and let them do their thing.
Do not mix species in the same enclosure unless you know what you are doing. One species will usually outcompete the other and you will end up with only one surviving colony.
Putting It All Together
Your setup checklist: gasket sealed plastic bin with ventilation holes or mesh, 2 to 3 inches of substrate (ABG mix or topsoil and coco coir blend), moisture gradient with damp sphagnum moss on one side, 1.5 to 2 inches of leaf litter on top, cork bark hides laid flat on the substrate, cuttlebone or crushed oyster shell for calcium, springtail culture added to the substrate, and a starter colony of 10 to 20 isopods.
Once everything is in place, mist the wet side, close the lid, and give your isopods a few days to settle in before checking on them. Resist the urge to dig around looking for them. They are in there. Let them get comfortable and you will start seeing them active at night within a week.
Where to Buy Isopods and Springtails
We breed Dairy Cow, Powder Blue, and Durian Spiky isopods along with Tropical Pink springtail cultures at our Southern California facility. All animals are captive bred and ship with a 100% live arrival guarantee via FedEx.
Visit creaturecache.com to see what is available or join our waitlist for early access to new drops. Every waitlist member gets a free 16oz springtail culture with their first order.
Common Questions About Isopod Enclosures
What size container do I need for isopods? A 6 quart gasket sealed plastic bin is ideal for a starter colony of 10 to 20 isopods. Upgrade to 15 or 32 quart as the colony grows. You do not need an expensive glass terrarium unless you want a display setup.
What substrate should I use for isopods? A moisture retentive, nutrient rich mix is best. We use a modified ABG mix (sphagnum moss, coco coir, orchid bark, charcoal, worm castings). For a simpler option, organic topsoil mixed 50/50 with coco coir works well. Avoid anything with fertilizers or pesticides.
How often should I mist my isopod enclosure? Check every 2 to 3 days. Mist the wet side when the sphagnum moss starts to dry out. The dry side should have some moisture but not be saturated. Frequency depends on your ventilation and local climate.
What do isopods eat? Leaf litter is the primary food source and should always be available. Supplement with soft vegetables (zucchini, squash, cucumber) and protein (fish flakes, freeze dried shrimp) once a week. Always keep a calcium source like cuttlebone in the enclosure.
Do isopods need a heat source? Most common species do fine at room temperature between 65 and 80°F. Tropical species like Durian Spikys prefer the warmer end (72 to 80°F). Supplemental heat is usually not needed unless your home drops below 65°F.
How many isopods should I start with? Start with 10 to 20. This gives you enough genetic diversity and colony momentum to establish a breeding population. Fewer than 10 works but reproduction will be slower.
Can I mix different isopod species together? We do not recommend it. One species will almost always outcompete the other. Keep each species in its own enclosure for the best results.
Do I need springtails with isopods? Springtails are not strictly required, but we strongly recommend them. They eat mold and microscopic debris that isopods miss, and they serve as an early warning system for enclosure problems. The two work together as a complete cleanup system.